45R Journal

Journal

Aishokunin Noren

Noren

Made from natural materials and crafted entirely by hand—from weaving and dyeing to every final stitch—our Aishokunin Noren has come to life.

The fabric is karamushi (ramie), a traditional Japanese bast fiber known for its strength, breathability, and beautiful texture. t features three types of kissho monyo (Japanese auspicious patterns) believed to bring good fortune: "Clouds and Horses," "Snails and Stone Pavements," and "Wave Crests and Flying Fish.

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    Clouds and Horses

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    Snails and Stone Pavement

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    Wave Crests and Flying Fish

Looming the Jomon

From Primitive Fiber to Thread: The Slow Resurrection of an Ancient Cloth

The cloth is woven from a wild variety of karamushi (wild ramie) known as no-karamushi—a fiber so ancient in character, it feels as though a textile from Japan’s Jōmon era has been brought back to life.

Using entirely traditional, hand-worked methods, the fibers are carefully harvested from the plant, stripped, prepared, and spun into yarn. From there, a textile artisan in Gifu weaves each piece by hand. The journey from plant to cloth takes nearly a month and a half.

According to the master indigo dyer, ya-karamushi (wild ramie) is exceptionally rare in itself, and the skill required to weave it into such a character-rich fabric is equally extraordinary. While the material is notoriously difficult to handle, the finished textile possesses a unique texture that blends a primitive, raw power with an unexpected lightness and flexibility.

The Indigo Manuscript

Brushing Shadows and Light to Reveal the Soul of Indigo

The indigo dyeing was carried out by an artisan in Ōme, Tokyo, whose work can be seen in many of the noren hanging at 45R's flagship stores, including Badou-R and our Kyoto store.

For these specific patterns, the artisan utilized a traditional resist-dyeing method called bosen. In this process, komenori (rice paste) is applied to the areas of the fabric that are to remain undyed before plunging the textile into the indigo vat. The rich gradations and depths of the indigo are achieved by varying the thickness of the paste and the number of times the fabric is dipped.

The final piece stands at 189 cm tall and features three panels sewn together (each panel measuring 45 cm wide), totaling a full width of 135 cm. It is tailored to the proportions of yamatohi (the Japanese golden ratio of 1:√2), reflecting a distinctly Japanese sense of aesthetic harmony.

Echoes of Ancient Grain

A Chestnut Box Forged in Jomon Heritage, Textured by Time and Persimmon Tannin

When the noren is not in use, it rests inside a custom-made kuri (chestnut wood) box. Renowned for its durability and beautiful grain, chestnut is a traditional Japanese material used since the Jomon period. The raw wood was provided by the master carpenter who built many of 45R’s retail locations, including the Kyoto store.

Crafted by a woodturning artisan in Kyoto, the box is not constructed by joining separate boards together. Instead, it is carved out directly from a single, thick block of chestnut timber. Because of this solid-block carving method, there are absolutely no joints or disruptions in the natural wood grain. The lid is carved out from the same wood block in the exact same manner.

The surface of the wood has been treated with a traditional texturing technique called uzukuri. Wood grain naturally consists of soft summer growth rings (natsume) and hard winter growth rings (fuyume). The uzukuri process involves scrubbing away only the soft summer growth to elevate and accentuate the hard winter grain, creating a beautiful tactile texture.

Furthermore, the entire box was stained using a natural dye made by reacting chestnut wood shavings with iron—a process known as tetsu-baizen (iron mordant dyeing). To ensure lasting durability, it was given a final protective coating of kakishibu (persimmon tannin), which provides natural insect-proofing, water resistance, and rot protection.

With a continuous wood grain that wraps seamlessly around all four sides and a distinct, tactile surface texture, the box itself commands an overwhelming presence. It is a masterpiece crafted with absolute devotion and soul.

A noren is a deeply significant item, often regarded as a symbol that "protects the home" and "carries forward the family history." We hope you will cherish it for many years to come and pass it down through the generations.