Journal
45R BOYS
CRAFT TERAKOYA
CRAFT TERAKOYA
At 45R, every collection begins with the people who dedicate themselves to making clothes—carefully considering every fabric, every silhouette, and every detail.
CRAFT TERAKOYA is a place to meet the people behind 45R's craftsmanship. Through conversations with the people who create our clothes, we explore the stories, philosophy, and craftsmanship woven into every piece.
For our first lesson, we sat down with Norio Sugahara, who leads 45R's Knit, Cut & Sew, and BOYS collections. At 45R, "BOYS" is the name of our men's collection. Together, we explored the history and philosophy behind 45R BOYS.
The Origins of 45R BOYS
Looking Back to the Beginning
BOYS has long been an integral part of 45R. When did it first begin? We had heard that, many years ago, there was a men's collection called NORTH MARINE DRIVE *—inspired by clothing for life by the sea. Was this where today's BOYS first took shape?
*Introduced in 1986 as 45R's men's collection.
"I think BOYS actually predates NORTH MARINE DRIVE. I believe we still have some of the original labels."
With that, Sugahara returned carrying a thick, leather-bound archive.
Woven name tag
"DENIM LINE" woven name tag, flasher, and leather patch
"NORTH MARINE DRIVE" leather patch
Paper tag and woven name tag
Turning the pages, we found fabric labels embroidered in a variety of typefaces, colorful paper flashers, and leather patches branded with the NORTH MARINE DRIVE logo—all carefully mounted as part of an archive from 45R's early years.
They revealed a freer, more playful approach to expression, quite different from the woven labels we know at 45R today.
Paper label
Among the archive was an instruction card printed with "45rpm Boys est. 1979 (JPN)," revealing that the BOYS line had existed even before NORTH MARINE DRIVE.
We also came across a postcard depicting a boy in a backwards baseball cap and collegiate sweatshirt, another in a red hooded parka, and a young girl standing alongside them.
"We call our men's collection BOYS because we never want to lose our youthful spirit, no matter how old we become."
Hearing Sugahara's words while looking at the boys on that postcard, we caught a glimpse of where 45R BOYS truly began.
An original 45rpm Boys instruction card, dated 1979.
A postcard signed by Yasumi Inoue, founder and head designer of 45R.
Dressing the 45R BOYS Way
Rooted in Ivy, Made Our Own
45R BOYS is never simply about looking cool. There's always a sense of playfulness—a lighthearted spirit that keeps it from feeling too polished.
So how should we wear BOYS?
"I think its roots are in traditional style. But BOYS is about loosening that tradition and making it your own.
When I think of 'traditional,' I think of Ivy. Ivy is the foundation, and what we do is reinterpret it in the 45R way. That's what BOYS means to us."
Pages from past 45R catalogues featuring BOYS.
Sugahara's words stayed with us.
The 45R way isn't about disregarding tradition. It begins with understanding the spirit of Ivy—its history, its culture, and its timeless foundations. Only then can you loosen it, reinterpret it, and make it your own with a touch of 45R's playfulness.
We came away thinking that this is the 45R way—to understand the form first, then enjoy the freedom to make it your own.
藍 Ai — 愛 Ai
In Japanese, "ai" can mean both indigo (藍) and love (愛), expressing how garments become more cherished the longer they are worn.
He then brought out some of his favorite BOYS pieces.
Faded with years of wear were indigo T-shirts, denim, and bandanas—each softened by time and rich with character. Some were more than ten or even twenty years old, yet every one of them remains very much a part of his wardrobe today.
”Exclusive to 45R, Suminando is our signature black indigo—one of the many original indigo recipes we have developed since our founding. "
"It has elegance, it lasts, and every time I wear it, I'm reminded just how special indigo denim is."
"This bandana is about twenty years old. I have two of them, but I've used almost only one."
Seeing them side by side reveals the beautiful changes that twenty years have brought to the indigo.
”I often find myself wondering how many garments have been made throughout history—and what it is about the ones that have endured."
Garments that have lived through the years possess a beauty that new clothes simply cannot. As the indigo softens, the fabric becomes gentler, and the traces of time begin to show, each piece takes on a character shaped by the life of the person who wears it.
The goal is never simply to make clothes that last. It is to create clothes that grow more meaningful—and more cherished—with time.
Through Sugahara's words, we caught a glimpse of the philosophy that lies at the heart of 45R's craftsmanship.
