Artisan Finishes: 45R Denim

The gradation of denim—expressed through 五彩 (Gosai): 濃 (Nou), 焦 (Syou), 重 (Zyu), 淡 (Tan), and 清 (Sei), a traditional Japanese concept of five shades—unfolds like a painter’s palette.

Finishes that make denim appear as if it has truly been worn and faded over time are created by combining many different techniques. This is where the craftsmanship of artisans who specialize in denim finishing truly shines. From the “whiskers” around the waist to the “honeycombs” behind the knees, every trace of wear is carefully drawn by their hands, capturing the genuine expression of lived-in denim.
In the seaside town of Kojima, Kurashiki in Okayama Prefecture—the birthplace of Japanese denim—stands the factory where 45R denim is finished. Within this factory, each process—shaving, blasting, bleaching, and topping—is carried out in its own dedicated room, where skilled artisans spend their days face-to-face with denim.

A sharp metallic whirring fills the air in the shaving workshop.

On its shelves rest more than a thousand denim patterns known as hige-gata (“whisker templates”). Each brand, each denim, calls for its own design, and for 45R every pair has its own dedicated whisker template carefully crafted. Even the slightest difference in contour can change the final expression dramatically, making the skill of creating the exact desired pattern truly invaluable. Some of these templates were even created from denim personally worn and nurtured over time by 45R’s own staff.

The template is placed over the denim, and then shaved down using a nylon wheel brush originally meant for woodworking. Adapting techniques from woodcraft, the artisans use sandpaper for the finer details, drawing out whiskers and fades by hand. The angle of the brush and the subtle pressure applied can transform the entire outcome, making each attempt a one-shot endeavor with no second chances. Here, everything relies solely on the skill and intuition honed through years of experience.

In the blasting workshop, exposed ducts coil across the ceiling as artisans work with hoses connected to them. Sandblasting is a technique in which fine grains of sand are sprayed with force onto the surface of denim, shaving it down. The method was originally born in shipbuilding factories to remove burrs from metal. By the time the dust settles, denim appears as though it has been worn and weathered for many years. Because the sand penetrates deep into the fabric, blasting achieves a more three-dimensional expression of aging. Yet the process carries serious health risks if the sand is inhaled. To protect themselves, the artisans wear full protective suits, goggles, and masks, working inside strictly partitioned rooms.

Next comes bleaching with sodium hypochlorite, known simply as jia in the workshop. The artisans wear masks and aprons bleached nearly white and riddled with holes from years of exposure, working in silence as they rub denim with cloths soaked in the solution. The process resembles a kind of experiment: as the cloth passes over the fabric, color lifts away, and whiskers and fades emerge. Because the effect varies depending on how the solution touches the cloth, the outcome depends greatly on the artisan’s skill. On racks in the workshop hang aprons repeatedly mended and repaired, bearing the traces of what they have absorbed and the long hours of devotion each artisan has given to the craft.

What all of these processes have in common is that the handling of liquids and tools, if misapplied even slightly, carries significant risk. This is why an uncompromising commitment to safety is always required.
Finally, there is topping. In a partitioned workspace, an artisan uses an airbrush to spray dye onto denim laid out on the table. Unlike the earlier processes that remove color, this step adds depth and nuance, much like the character of vintage denim. Mixing the ink is delicate work—even a 0.01 mg difference can dramatically change the shade. With the finished “face” in mind, the artisan blends colors and applies each spray with meticulous care. On the shelves, bottles and cans of dyes, pigments, and chemicals are neatly arranged, while the mixing table—layered with years of dried inks—holds well-worn tools placed with precision.
Among the many denim finishing techniques, 45R combines these methods in countless ways to create the unique expression of each pair. Once finishing is complete, the jeans go to washing specialists for a full wash, receive their final touches, and are carefully inspected before heading to 45R stores.

To create the expression of denim as we envision it, it is essential that the imaginations of 45R and the artisans at the factory come into perfect harmony. For this reason, 45R’s making team visits the site frequently, engaging in ongoing conversations with the craftsmen and continuously sharing the passion that guides our denim-making.
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