Pâte à chou Black Formal Vol.1

Introducing the Black Formal Collection from Pâte à chou, a line filled with everything Yasumi Inoue has long cherished.
This marks 45R’s very first foray into black formalwear. We spoke with Yasumi-san about the story behind its creation.

Authentic and Traditional

It all began three years ago, during our 45 Years of 45R event, when we visited one of our regional stores. A customer approached me and asked, “Yasumi-san, would 45R ever consider making black formalwear?” On the way home that day, I casually mentioned it to our founder—just a lighthearted thought, “Maybe we could try it.” But once we were back at the office, the idea took on a life of its own. Before I knew it, a department store venue had already been reserved (laughs). That’s when I realized—this isn’t just a passing idea, it’s something we truly need to create. And so, this collection officially began.

Because black formalwear called for a different sensibility than our usual 45R pieces, we chose to develop this collection under Pâte à chou. This line is rooted in the idea of clothing for women who are both feminine and strong—diligent, resilient, and quietly powerful. With this Black Formal Collection, too, we’ve stayed true to our worldview: a delicate balance of hard and soft.

We wanted the foundation to be authentic and traditional, so we partnered with Fox Brothers, a venerable British mill with a long history. The tailoring reflects a menswear-inspired approach, while we added subtle twists—such as using handwoven khadi fabric for the lining.

More and more people around me are finding themselves in need of formalwear. I created this collection with those moments in mind, hoping it will resonate with those seeking something both meaningful and enduring.

A Black with Subtle Nuance

The black used in this collection is, of course, black—but not a flat, pitch black. Because we use natural materials, the color holds a subtle depth and nuance. As we age, pure black can sometimes feel too stark, even difficult to wear. But this shade pairs naturally with denim or indigo, blending in without any sense of discord.

For the photoshoot, we styled the pieces with Indian silk released in May. For a casual look, I think it’s quite chic to pair the black formal jacket with processed denim shirts and pants. Add black heeled shoes, and the look sharpens instantly. With a skirt, you might wear a snug black turtleneck sweater, wrap a pink stole around your neck, and finish the look with boots.

The fabric doesn’t scream “black formalwear”—its nuanced tone makes it wonderfully versatile, easily complemented by a range of colors.

For a more casual look, I found myself a pair of slim, elongated loafers—just for this collection (laughs). Opera shoes would be charming too. For the shoot, we styled the outfits with vintage lace-up boots that had a modest heel, adding a touch of character.

For formal occasions, I think a delicate pump with a slight heel and slender straps feels just right. When wearing a skirt, pairing it with sheer black stockings—not solid black—adds a beautiful softness.

Even the jewelry from this collection pairs well with a T-shirt.
In fact, that’s how I always choose my jewelry—if it looks cute with a T-shirt, it’s a keeper.

This collection offers versatility—pieces you can wear on joyful days, on sorrowful days, and even in between.
Perhaps this will be our first and last Black Formal line. All the more reason, I hope you'll take the time to experience it.
We invite you to visit a 45R store to discover these treasures for yourself.

【 45R Stores Carrying Pâte à chou Black Formal】
• New York Uptown - 18th July
• Hong Kong Star Street - 22nd July
• Beijing San Li Tun - 8th August
• Paris Saint-Honoré Store - 19th September

Availability of designs, colors, and sizes may vary by location. Please contact the store directly for details.
Explore Styling Ideas for Black Formal