Knit-sewn

From JR Fukushima Station, it takes a winding 45-minute bus ride through mountain roads before arriving at 45R’s very own factory, SDL. Nestled quietly among satoyama woodlands and rice fields, the factory sits in a truly serene setting.In fact, it is rare for an apparel brand to own its own factory. While most manufacturers rely on outsourcing to external workshops, 45R chooses to create many of its knits here at SDL. Among them, the “knit-sewn”—a knit designed to be worn like a cut-and-sewn top—is one of SDL’s specialties.This time, we would like to share a glimpse into how this signature piece is brought to life.
At SDL, every step is done under one roof—from knitting the yarn and washing the fabric, to cutting, embroidering, sewing, and finishing.
In most cases, these processes are divided among separate workshops: knitters, washers, sewers, embroiderers, and finishers. SDL’s strength lies in uniting them all in one place. Here, under the attentive eyes of 45R’s seasoned craftsmen, every detail is carefully nurtured from start to finish.
As its name suggests, the knit-sewn is created by taking knitted fabric, cutting it, and sewing it together.
While most knits are constructed by linking the body and sleeves stitch by stitch, the knit-sow is assembled like a T-shirt—cut, sewn, and finished from fine knitted fabric. The result is a piece that offers the elegance of a quality knit with the casual ease of a tee or sweatshirt—an everyday favorite we truly love.

At SDL, every hank that arrives from the spinning mill is first wound onto cones to ready it for smooth knitting. Fresh yarn can vary in thickness, carry slubs or little knots, and feel a bit raw—hard to knit as-is. So we inspect each strand with care, mark any weak points that might snap, and apply a light wax as we wind. This gentle prep steadies the thread, improves its glide, and brings the yarn into ideal condition for knitting.

Once prepared, the yarn moves into the knitting room. Here, about twenty knitting machines stand in neat rows, humming with a steady “ja-ja-ja” as they produce fabric that gently flows out from their centers.

Because the fabric is knitted to be soft and airy, it emerges slowly—taking about forty minutes to knit enough for a single Shetland sweater, and sometimes more than an hour depending on the pattern. To keep the machines running smoothly, several yarns are carefully joined in advance, ensuring an uninterrupted flow. With multiple machines working at once, thoughtful preparation is essential here too.

Once the fabric is knitted, it is spread across the inspection table and examined corner to corner. With light shining up from beneath, every stitch is carefully checked—looking for dropped stitches or loose threads—before moving on to the washing stage.

In the washroom, the fabric is first steamed to settle the knit, then washed and dried in large machines. After drying, it is steamed once more. This process tightens the stitches and brings out a soft, airy fullness.

The standard is always the fabric swatches approved by Yasumi-san’s discerning eye. Every wash and dry cycle is finely adjusted to match that ideal hand-feel. For knits, nothing matters more than texture.

Next comes the cutting. On the table, layers of knitted fabric are stacked neatly in place. With the pattern set and the cutter engaged, the machine slices through ten layers at once, following the template with precision.

For thicker fabrics like Shetland knits, or for patterned cloth that requires subtle adjustments, the work is done by hand—cut carefully by skilled craftsmen. Once the pieces are ready, they move to another wing of the factory, where 45R’s crest—the signature “R” embroidery—is stitched in.

Sewing is the heart of the knit-sewn—an essential step that gives it its true identity. Like vintage sweatshirts, the pieces are stitched together with a four-needle machine, creating the distinctive seams that define the garment.

This is where the craftsmen’s skill truly shines. Sewing knit straight and true is no easy task, especially with loosely knit fabrics that are prone to stretching. It takes time and experience to master the feel. For the neckline, an extra lockstitch is sometimes added first to prevent unraveling before sewing begins—an extra layer of care in an already meticulous process.

At SDL, even the small details—like the labels sewn into collars or the drawstrings for sweatpants—are made in-house. These cords are knitted on a koyoko machine so old that even the factory director can’t recall when it first arrived. With its steady kasha-kasha rhythm, the machine produces each piece, which is then carefully attached by hand, one by one.
The final steps are all about care. Loose threads are trimmed, each piece is pressed, and every detail is inspected before being folded neatly for shipping. From there, the garments are sent to an inspection center for a third-party check. Once approved, they pass through 45R’s logistics hub, Studio R, before reaching shops across the country.

Because every process is completed within sight of 45R’s own craftsmen, our spirit runs through every corner of the garment. The knit-sow made in SDL is the very foundation of 45R’s knitwear. Each piece carries an original SDL45R label, stitched on with a quiet sense of pride.
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