Journal
Shetland
CRAFT TERAKOYA
Shetland — Born of Wind and Sea
At 45R, our clothes are shaped by people who work closely with materials and form, giving careful thought to every detail along the way.
CRAFT TERAKOYA introduces the people behind our making. With those involved in creating 45R clothes as our teachers, we uncover the ideas, techniques, and stories woven into each piece.
For our fourth lesson, we once again learn from Norio Sugahara of the Koromo Planning Office, who leads 45R’s Knit, Cut & Sew, and BOYS collections, as he takes us into the world of Shetland—an essential part of winter at 45R.
The Island of Sheep
From Shetland’s Flocks to 45R
45R’s Shetland returns every year as the weather begins to cool. But first of all—what exactly is Shetland?
“Shetland refers to a breed of sheep raised on the Shetland Islands, north of Scotland. Their wool is strong and warm, with deep, complex colors reminiscent of tweed—exactly the kind of knitwear we love at 45R.
For our Shetland pieces, we use genuine Shetland wool spun by Jamieson’s, a long-established knitwear maker with generations of history rooted in the islands.”
From The 45R Book, Autumn/Winter 2016, recalling our journey to the Shetland Islands to meet the sheep behind the wool.
“About ten years ago, I went to Shetland to visit Jamieson’s and see where the wool was being made. It was quite a journey—Tokyo to London, then on to Edinburgh in Scotland, and from there we finally reached the islands by charter flight.
Once you arrive, there are sheep everywhere. I was told there are around fourteen times as many sheep as people. It isn’t just cold—the wind is so strong you can barely stand upright, and hardly any trees grow there. It is precisely because the sheep live in such a harsh environment that their wool becomes so strong and warm.
If you ever go, I’d recommend winter. We didn’t get to see the Northern Lights when we were there, but we did meet some seals.” (laughs)
Sweaters of the Men of the Sea
Where 45R’s Shetland Story Began
When did 45R first begin making Shetland sweaters?
“They were already around when I joined the company in 2000, so it must have been earlier than that. When you think of Shetland, you think of sweaters worn by men of the sea, so I believe it probably began with NORTH MARINE DRIVE, our BOYS line inspired by maritime clothing.
At some point, Shetland became a winter standard that we make every year. And whenever we work on Shetland pieces, there is one book we always turn to—our bible, in a way.”
Sugahara then opened a large-format book that had clearly been read countless times, its pages worn and torn from years of use.
Its title was Sweaters of the Men of the Sea.
Sweaters of the Men of the Sea by Noriko Tomita (Nippon Vogue)
“There aren’t many vintage knits left for us to study. With woven fabrics like denim and shirts, there are plenty of old examples that we can look at and learn from. But knitwear and cut-and-sew garments have a much shorter history as clothing, so there is far less material to refer to.
What has survived is mostly things like the fishermen’s sweaters you see in this book, or school sweaters from American colleges. That is exactly why references like this are so valuable.”
Turning past the cover, which shows fishermen dressed in their working sweaters, we found archival photographs of knitwear worn by men working the harsh northern seas of Europe: jacquard sweaters, gloves, and socks from Fair Isle in northern Scotland, and Aran sweaters from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.
Sweaters of the Men of the Sea by Noriko Tomita (Nippon Vogue)
“When I saw the actual Fair Isle sweater from this book at the museum in Shetland, I was deeply moved. It is said to be one of the oldest hand-knitted garments in the world, and I was told that all of the yarn colors were created with natural plant dyes.
The knitting is dense to keep out the wind, and the sleeves are cut slightly shorter to make it easier to work in. It is beautiful precisely because every detail comes from function.”
A Textured Touch, Tweedy Colors
Softening Shetland, Without Losing Its Character
Shetland wool is often associated with a certain prickliness, yet 45R’s Shetland is known for feeling surprisingly soft and comfortable against the skin. What is the secret behind that comfort?
“That is thanks to the factory in Japan that handles the finishing. Because the wool comes from sheep raised in such a harsh environment, the yarn still feels quite coarse when it first arrives. The factory carefully prepares it for knitting, then washes and finishes each piece with great care.
We want to preserve the naturally uneven, textured character that makes Shetland what it is, while at the same time making it more comfortable against the skin. Every year, we keep experimenting with ways to reduce that prickly feel.”
The colors are beautiful too. Is there a secret behind them?
“One of Shetland’s greatest charms is the way the colors blend together with that tweedy depth. The complex shades look almost as though they were taken straight from the landscape of the Shetland Islands, and they are something only Jamieson’s can create.
They become especially beautiful when you see many colors together, with so much depth and richness, so I always end up wanting to make lots of them. But if it were up to me... I’d wear navy.” (laughs)
“I’ve always loved those densely knitted navy Guernsey sweaters, like the ones real fishermen wear.”
Shetland Felted Stadium Jacket, from AW 2026
Shetland Felted Tent Bolero, from AW 2026
Shetland Felted Vest, from AW 2026
It became clear that 45R’s Shetland knitwear is made possible by many hands: the sheep raised in a harsh natural environment, Jamieson’s carrying on the traditions of Shetland, and the careful craftsmanship of the makers in Japan.
As a final little detail, Sugahara told us that the name tag sewn onto 45R’s Shetland pieces is printed with the handwritten signature of Peter, the president of Jamieson’s.
