Pâte à chou Black Formal Vol.2

Presenting the Black Formal Collection from Pâte à chou — a line filled with everything Yasumi Inoue has always held dear.
In this second installment, we share the story of the materials and silhouettes. We spoke to Yoshida about the fabrics, and Sasaki about the shapes.

It Must Be Authentic

Yuriko Yoshida Joined 45R in 2001. Leader of woven fabric development, she has built strong relationships with textile makers around the world.

When we set out to create our Black Formal line, we knew it had to be nothing but the real thing—especially because our customers would be wearing it on truly important occasions.

That’s why we visited fabric makers across England. There are many with long histories, but we ultimately chose Fox Brothers because—despite their legacy—they don’t feel like a corporation. In the best way, they’re unchanging. They’ve continued to make the same quality cloth, unaffected by trends. That spirit resonated deeply with us at 45R.

For this collection, we selected a fabric from Fox Brothers’ archive—a cloth they’ve been producing for generations—and ordered it especially for 45R’s Black Formal line.

Each piece carries a special “Fox Brothers × 45R” label on the lining, marking this collaboration.

Fox Brothers & Co. Ltd. is a heritage textile mill founded in 1772 in Wellington, Somerset, England. Renowned as the originator of flannel, their name is synonymous with timeless British fabric craftsmanship.

Wool Tweed, After All, Belongs to Britain.

“When you aim for the real thing, nothing quite compares to what comes from the UK.
The history of British wool is truly remarkable.”
— Yasumi Inoue

We tend to make very detailed requests to our mills—
“The weave is too open,” “We want a bit more body here”—that sort of thing. Fox Brothers responded to every single request with precision, delivering a fabric that was simply perfect.
Sadly, it’s not something we can reproduce in Japan.

In the past, we tried to make tweed domestically using authentic Shetland yarns. But no matter what we did, we couldn’t quite get the finish right. Of course, when it comes to wool felting or homespun handwoven tweeds, Japan may sometimes outdo even the UK. But when it comes to wool tweed—it has to be British. That’s the real thing.

Even the color is extraordinary: somewhere between black, charcoal, and sumi-ink—a subtle blend of tones that’s hard to describe, and unmistakably Fox Brothers. The herringbone ridges are beautifully defined, not flattened, with a structure that holds its shape.

The Subtle Luster and Just-right Structure—That’s The Beauty of Cotton-wool.

Our Venetian cloth isn’t 100% wool. The warp yarn is cotton—it’s a classic cotton-wool blend. This method harks back to traditional British tailoring, the same construction once used for regimental stripe jackets worn in cricket, a heritage sport in the UK.

In Japan, most would likely attempt to make Venetian cloth with 100% wool. But it’s precisely because it’s a cotton-wool blend that we get this beautiful luster and just-right firmness. Pure wool simply wouldn’t give the same result.

One note of caution: dry cleaning requires special care. We highly recommend using 45R’s laundry service—our finishing ensures the garment comes back beautifully, and we offer a guarantee for peace of mind.

Silhouettes That Bring Out The Soul of The Fabric

Mai Sasaki Joined 45R in 2015. A pattern maker known for creating original and imaginative womenswear, piece after piece.

The silhouettes took shape through daily conversations with Yasumi-san. We began with just a jacket and bottoms, but as we worked with the fabric, we kept asking ourselves — What silhouettes would best bring out its character? How should it be tailored?

We imagined a woman with a strong, refined presence. That vision guided the shape of the jacket, and from there, we crafted clean, elegant bottoms to pair with it. Bit by bit, the collection came together—adding inner layers and other pieces we thought would feel just right.

At 45R, we usually wash our garments—cotton or wool—as part of the finishing process. aBut this time, we didn’t wash anything. For me, it was a first! I still remember how tense I felt while drafting the patterns, knowing that without washing, even the smallest imperfections would stand out.

Formal, Yet True to 45R

“We’ve left generous seam allowances in the jackets and bottoms, so they can be altered even as your size changes over the years. They’re not inexpensive pieces—so my hope is that you’ll care for them, mend them, and wear them until they become your own vintage.” — Yasumi Inoue

When it came to construction, we had more back-and-forth with the factory than usual. They were surprised, too—“Herringbone for black formal? Really?” (laughs). The fabric is so distinctive, even pressing it required special care.

We used two materials—wool herringbone and Venetian cloth—both in the same silhouettes. But to make each look its best, we carefully adjusted details like seam allowance width and stitch thread thickness. We did several rounds of testing with the factory to make sure the collar sat just right, with the fabric gently nestled between the stitches.

Each finish was chosen specifically to suit the fabric—and to bring out its strength and beauty.

With a peaked lapel jacket, the lapel is everything.

Just like in a proper bespoke suit, we added AMF stitching—those decorative stitches that mimic handwork. But the fabric had such presence and strength that standard thread simply disappeared into it.

So we chose the thickest machine-thread available, and had the factory adjust and readjust the machine settings over and over until the stitches looked just right—like true hand stitching.

That’s how we finally landed on the finish you see now.

At 45R, even the inside has to be charming.

So for the jacket lining, we added a touch of playfulness with a multistripe Indian Khadi fabric and trimmed it with champagne-gold tape—bringing in a soft, feminine accent.

Where we could have fun, we did. Though it’s black formalwear, we made sure it still feels unmistakably 45R.

Even the smallest details got special attention.

Each button is engraved with Pâte à chou’s signature pink logo, and the spare button patch is cut into the shape of a flower—just a little touch of joy.

And the care label? It’s printed in Yasumi-san’s very own handwriting. Wherever you look—inside or out—we wanted this piece to bring a smile.

We invite you to visit a 45R store to discover these treasures for yourself.

【 45R Stores Carrying Pâte à chou Black Formal】
• New York Uptown - 18th July
• Hong Kong Star Street - 22nd July
• Beijing San Li Tun - 8th August
• Paris Saint-Honoré Store - 19th September

Availability of designs, colors, and sizes may vary by location. Please contact the store directly for details.
Read Black Formal Journal Vol.1
Explore Styling for Black Formal